Storming the Cold Beaches of Normandy

Bayeux Cathderal, Bayeux, Normandy


Bayeux, Normandy


Boat Outside Bayeux Tapestry Museum, Normandy


The Hotel Bellefontaine, Bayeux, (Where we Stayed), Normandy


The Hotel Bellefontaine, Bayeux (Where we Stayed).




Approaching the Beaches, D-Day, June 6th, 1944


The Boats that Brought Over the Boys.


Omaha Beach, Normandy


Omaha Beach


Omaha Beach


Wounded Soldiers, D-Day, June 6th, 1944



Pointe du Hoc Ranger Memorial, Normandy


Bomb Craters and Gun Turrents, Pointe du Hoc


Bomb Crater, Pointe du Hoc


U.S. Rangers atop Pointe du Hoc, June 6th, 1944


The Beaches


The Rangers, Pointe du Hoc


The View from the Top of Pointe du Hoc


Dad Checking Out a German Bunker at Point Hoc


Inside the US Military Memorial Museum, Normandy


Omaha Beach, June 6, 1944


US Military Cemetary, Normandy


US Military Cemetary


'Here Rests In Honored Glory A Comrade In Arms Known But to God', US Military Cemetary


US Military Cemetary


US Military Cemetary


Lunch with Dear Old Dad, Juno Beach, Normandy


In Loving Memory, Juno Beach, Normandy


Juno Beach, Go Canada!


Juno Beach


The Canadian War Memorial Museum at Juno Beach


Juno Beach


Juno Beach


Juno Beach


Canadians landing on Juno Beach, June 6th, 1944


Juno Beach


Dad at Juno Beach


Juno Beach


Pegasus Bridge


Pegasus Bridge, June 6th, 1944


This was the first house in France to be liberated during the last hour of 5th June 1944 by men of the Oxfordshire and Buckinghamshire Light Infantry in the British 6th Airborn Division Under the Command of Major R. John Howard.


Tank, Pegasus Bridge


Shortly after my mom flew home, my dad and I decided to do a little father-daughter trip up to Normandy and the Loire Valley. We had a great time! It was awesome to spend some good old fashion QT with dear old dad.

We left early in the morning and managed to make it to Normandy by the late after noon, it was about a 7 hour drive, long I know. But it was nothing in comparison to driving to Geneva. We decided to stay in Bayeux which seemed pretty central and within range of all the major sites. You definitely need a car if you go to Normandy, as we were quite surprised at how spread out everything actually was, its a huge area to say the least. Nevertheless, we did our best to see and cover as much ground as we could.

Despite the best efforts of Steven Spielberg, it's all but impossible now to picture the scene at dawn on D-Day, June 6, 1944, when Allied troops landed along the Norman coast. Today, the long sandy beaches backed by gentle dunes are quiet and peacful, so it makes it hard to imagine the horrific carnage of June 6, 1944, and yet this foothold in Europe was won at the cost of 100,000 soldiers' lives. Walking along these beaches was an incredibly humbling and powerful experience. The ensuing Battle of Normandy killed thousands of civilians and reduced hundreds of towns and villages to rubble but, within a week of its eventual conclusion, Paris was liberated.

The beaches are still often referred to by their wartime code names: from east to west – Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword. Substantial traces of the fighting are rare, as most remnants are found in the many museums – we made it to three of them. The most remarkable remains that we saw were at Pointe du Hoc, just to the east of Omaha beach, the cliff heights are still deeply pitted with German bunkers and shell holes. Apparently the remains of the astounding Mulberry Harbour at Arromanches and the church at Ste-Mere-Eglise are quite something, unfortunately we just ran out of time and weren't able to see them.

Some of the sites we did manage to see:

1.Omaha Beach
If there is one place where the Allied landings nearly failed, it is, of course, Omaha Beach. Beacuse of its topography the site was easy to defend. The Germans had covered the area with guns, machine-gun nests, mortars, minefields and barbed wire. By the evening of D-Day, the operation which had begun so badly had ultimately been a success, although a very heavy price had been paid. The losses totalled more than 3,000 men (fifteen times more than on Utah Beach).

2.The American Cemetary and War Memorial
Crowning a bluff just above Omaha beach and the eye of the D-Day storm, 9,387 brilliant white-marble crosses and Stars of David glow in memory of Americans who gave their lives to free Europe on the beaches below.

2.Pointe du Hoc
For the invasion, 300 US Army Rangers were handpicked to attempt a castle-style assault of the German occupied cliffs, using grappling hooks and ladders borrowed from London firedepartments. Only 90 Rangers survived the vertical assault. This was the German's most heavily fortified position along the coast. German bunkers and bomb craters remain just as they were found.

3.Juno Beach and the Canadian Memorial Museum
Juno was also known as Canadian Beach because it was Canadian forces, the 3rd Canadian Infantry, who were assigned this beach. The Germans were dug in well here with 14 heavy batteries and plenty of machine gun nests and pillboxes and other concrete fortifications for the landing forces to contend with, which can still be seen today. The first wave suffered 50% casualties, but the beach was taken in a matter of hours and by noon the bulk of the 3rd Division was ashore. By the end of the day 15,000 Canadian troops were landed. The Juno Beach Centre commemorating the events that took place here, is the maple leaf shaped building just back of the dunes.

4.Pegasus Bridge
In the early morning hours of June 6, 1944, a small detachment of British airborn troops, the men of D Company, 2nd Oxfordshire and Buckinghamshire Light Infantry (part of the 6th British Airborne Division) stormed the German defense forces and paved the way for the Allied invasion of Europe. Pegasus Bridge was the first engagement of D-Day, the turning point of World War II. The control of Pegasus Bridge gave the Allies the opportunity to disrupt the Germans ability to bring in re-enforcements to the Normandy beaches, especially those that the British and Canadians were landing at – Gold, Juno and Sword.

WSET Level 3 Completed!

Looking towards Domaine Gayda and its Vineyards.


The Vineyards.


Vinecole


It was a bit too chilly for a dip.


The Entrance to the Gites (Accomodatiom).


The Gites.


The Gites.


Beautiful even in November.


My Place!


I know it's a bit of a crap picture, but just wanted to show everyone my dream fridge, which has a wine fridge built into it!!


The Accomodation.


The Accomodation.


I just got home late last night and enjoyed a much deserved ice cold beer after five intense days of WSET Level 3. What is the WSET Level 3?

The course provides a core knowledge of the wide range of wines and spirits around the world and their commercial importance in the global market. It builds on the knowledge gained in the Level 2 Intermediate Certificate and provides an in-depth study of the main wine regions and a detailed analytical approach to wine tasting.

Topics covered:

Viticulture and Vinification, Bordeaux and South West France, Burgundy and Alsace, Loire, Rhone and South of France, Germany, Austria, Hungary, UK, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Eastern Europe, New Zealand and South Africa, North and South America, Australia, Fortified Wines, Sparkling Wines, Spirits, and Liqueurs

It was only myself and one other person in the course, apparently there were a few more people registered, but they decided to postpone the course until spring because of all the strikes that were going on in France. I will admit to feeling slightly intimidated, since the guy that was in the class with me is the owner a very successful wine tasting company that has been around for the past ten years. It can be found all over France, parts of Germany and is planning on expanding into Spain and Italy. I tried my very hardest not to look like a complete idiot.

I took the course through Vinecole which is located at the beautiful Domaine Gayda in the Languedoc-Roussillon area of south west France. The course was taught by Master of Wine Matthew Stubbs, (who was great!) and another lady named Emma who I was not so great. She gave off the impression of being insincere and a snooty know-it all, she has her Diploma Level, which is only the level above the course I just completed.

Regardless, I had a great time and got to sample and analyze over 90 different wines! Some of my favourites were:



1.Estiba 1, Bodegas Esmerelda, Torrontes, 2007, Mendoza, Argentina
Not everyone's glass of wine but Argentina's answer to Viognier is this richly aromatic, spicy, lemony, musk peach-scented white made from the country's indigenous torrontes grape.
Appearance: clear, medium minus intensity, lemon in colour, legs
Nose: clean, medium plus intensity, developing, stone fruit, peach, pear, apricot, cirtus, honey, floral
Palate: dry, medium plus acidity, medium alcohol, medium body, medium plus intensity, medium length, with flavours of peach, stone fruit, pear, apricot, floral and hints of honey
Conclusions: good quality, mid price, drink now



2. Montana, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2009
Super fresh, zingy flavours with mouth watering acidity and lovely fragrant herbaceous aromas are all hallmarks of excellent New World Sauvignon Blanc. The fresh passion fruit flavours go well with oysters or salmon as well as asparagus.
Appearance: clear, pale, lemon-green in colour, watery rim
Nose: clean, pronounced intensity, youthful, grapefruit, citrus, green apple, grass, herbaceous, pear, floral
Palate: dry, medium plus acidity, medium body, pronounced intensity, medium alcohol, medium plus length, with flavours of citrus, grapefruit, grass, apple, floral, pear, herbaceous
Quality: very good, mid price, drink now will not develop.



3. Campo Viejo, Rioja Reserva, 2005, Spain
Made from a blend of tempranillo, graciano and mazuelo grape varieties. This red has been aged for at least 18 months in barrel and 18 months in bottle prior to release, in accordance with DO regulations – however most Riojas are aged longer than the legal minimum.
Appearance: clear, medium plus intensity, ruby-garnet in colour, legs
Nose: clean, medium plus intensity, developed, dark fruits, dried fruits, raisin, cinnamon, soft strawberry, earthy, vanilla, toasty oak
Palate: dry, medium acidity, medium plus tannin, med alcohol, medium plus body, medium plus intensity, long length, flavours of: dark fruits, dried fruits, jam, earth, savoury, clove, cinnamon, toasty
Quality: very good, high priced, drink now but will improve



4. Chateau Marquis d'Alesme-Becker, Grand Cru Classe, Margaux, 2007, Bordeaux, France
Appearance: clear, medium plus intensity, ruby in colour, lots of legs
Nose: clean, medium plus intensity, developing, vegetal, earthy, black fruits, green pepper, licorice, mint/menthol, plum, eucalyptus, oak, black cherry, cloves
Palate: dry, medium acidity, high tannin, medium plus alcohol, medium plus body, medium plus flavour intensity, medium plus length, with flavours of green pepper, plum, cassis, black cherry, blackberry, cedar, spice, oak, licorice, mint, earth
Quality: very good, premium price, drink now but will improve

I also loved some of the Italians, especially these two: Barolo, Cantine Rocca Ripalta, 2006 (Italy) and Chianti Reserva, Famiglia Terraccia, 2007 (Italy)!

Burgundy

The Cote d'Or!


Chassagne-Montrachet! My personal fav! This appellation produces some absolutely wonderful Chardonnays and is thought to be one of the "big three" white wine villages of the Cote de Beaune - a member of the Holy Trinity if you will, along with Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet.




Fountain in Meursault


The Premises of A Fabulous 3 Course Lunch in Meursault. Le Bouchon Restaurant.


Dad Buying More Pate in Meursault.


The Tell Tale Sign That a Winery is Open for Tastings - Empty Bottles on top of a Barrel.



Castle with a Cool Draw-Bridge.




Chestnuts. Get'em While They're Hot. Saturday Morning Market in Beaune.


Dried Fruit and Olives, Saturday Market in Beaune.


Sausages, 3 for 10 Euros. Saturday Market in Beaune.










Mushrooms


Artichokes and Radishes. Saturday Market in Beaune.


Truffles! Saturday Market in Beaune.


Couvent des Cordeliers


Couvent des Cordeliers


Interior of L'Oiseau des Vignes


First Course at L'Oiseau des Vignes


Dessert at L'Oiseau des Vignes


Hospices de Beaune, "Palace for the Poor"
I just loved these colour patterned roofs, they are certainly one of the most eye catching sights as you travel through Burgundy. They are mainly found on grand buildings and made from glazed multicoloured tiles - they are still made today.


Hospices de Beaune


Hospices de Beaune


Inside the Hospices de Beaune

After all that gorgeous fresh air in the alps we decided to detour to Burgundy for a few days for some wine tasting, touring and a little culture before heading home.

Sooner or later all bons vivants end up in Burgundy tasting Grand Cru wines and eating snails, boeuf bourguignon and oeufs en meurette, the poached eggs cooked in red Burgundy wine. Burgundians are truly obsessed with good wine and food. My parents had I were lucky enough to experience the gustatory delights of the Saturday morning market in Beaune. A delight for gourmets, the market certainly reflected the region's reputation as the stomach of France. The streets and squares were packed with merchants and farmers selling pretty much anything one's appetite desired – seasonal vegetables, fresh fruit, herbs, cheese, sausages, truffles, nuts, quail's eggs and bread.

We had two absolutely fabulous lunches during our visit to Burgundy. The first was at a great little restaurant called Le Bouchon in Meursault. I had a fabulous three course meal – salad topped with goats cheese wrapped in crispy filo pastry, followed by the most tender duck I've ever had, culminating with a dessert so good I can't remember what it was. Our second most fabulous lunch, also three courses, was the following day at Bernard Loiseau's restaurant Loiseau Des Vignes in Beaune. The restaurant had a wine list offering a selection of 70 premium names all served by the glass!! We all splurged for the menu marche, a three course lunch which featured some of the paramount dishes of Burgundy - boeuf chalonnaise (to die for!!) and the most heavenly chocolate mousse concoction for dessert.

In addition to touring and tasting some of the world's most prestigious vineyards and wines, there was certainly no shortage of things to see and do in the town of Beaune. The Hospices de Beaune (or Hotel-Dieu) was definitely a highlight. It was founded in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin, chancellor of Burgundy, and his wife, Guigone de Salins, as a hospital for the poor and needy. From the Middle Ages to the 20th century, countless sick were taken in and cared for in several of the large rooms by the Sisters of the Hospices de Beaune. The hospice rapidly gained a great reputation amongst the poor, nobles and middle-class alike. It was subsequently enlarged with donations fromthe latter and embellished with new rooms and works of art! The hospice possesses many artistic treasures, among them a 15th century altar piece, The Last Judgement, painted by the flemish artist Rogier Van der Weyden. Apparently, it was placed above the Chapel and was only allowed to be seen by the sick on Sunday and feast days.

The Hospices de Beaune also hosts an important charity wine auction held each year in November. The auction has been arranged annually since 1851, taking place on the third Sunday in November amid a three day festival devoted to the food and wines of Burgundy. The Domaine des Hospices de Beaune is a non-profit organisation which owns around 61 hectarres of donated vineyard land, much of this classified Grand and Premier Cru.

Another great highlight was touring the caves and cloisters of the Couvent des Cordeliers. The Caves du Couvent des Cordeliers, now a wine merchant, is the oldest monastery in Beaune, founded in the 13th century. The cellars are situated in the heart of the historic town opposite the Hotel-Dieu. The Couvent's cellars house some very fine Burgundian wines, all aged with great care of course. We ended our visit in the Chapter house, which has been transformed into a wine shop and tasting area , where we got to sample some delicious and interesting wines. The following is a list of the wines we tasted:

1.Couvent des Cordeliers, Pouilly-Fuisse, 2006, Price: 14. 20 Euro
Quite a lively wine, with aromas and flavours of exotic ripe fruits – pineapple, pear and hazelnut. It is full-bodied with a strong oak influence. Note: Pouilly-Fuisse ia an appellation for dry white wine made from Chardonnay in the Maconnais region of Burgundy. This was not my favourite wine out of the 6 others tasted.

2.Couvent des Cordeliers, Meursault, 2006 (white), Price: 29.60 Euro
A mellow dry white wine with a heady bouquet of almond, apple, foliage and crusty warm bread and a long and elegant finish. Would be quite tasty with some crab cakes or other seafood dishes. Note: Meursault is a renowned commune in the Cote d'Or region of Burgundy and produces mainly white wines from Chardonnay.

3.Couvent des Cordeliers, Vosne-Romanee, 2007, Price: 35.00 Euro
Deep ruby in colour with intense aromatics of spice, nutmeg, red fruit, cherry and blackcurrant. This is a rich, silky, complex and well balanced wine that has long ageing potential. Notes: Vosne-Romanee is a commune located north of Beaune in the Cote de Nuits are of the Cote d”or department in Burgundy. This area produces some of the region's best red wines, all made entirely from the Pinot Noir grape.

4.Hospices de Beaune, Beaune , Premier Cru, Cuvee Clos de Avaux, 2001, Price: 44.00 Euro
Dark in colour with dominant aromas of candied berry fruit and barnyard notes, this wine is well balanced, tannic and has a long delicious finish. Enjoy this wine with morel mushrooms or cheeses like Chaource or Brillat Savarin. One of my favourite wines in the tasting.

5.Couvent des Cordeliers, Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, 2004, Price: 56.00 Euro
Vigorous, robust, elegant and fine, this highly fragrant wine has intense aromas of animal/barnyard and soft ripe berry fruit – typical in character for Pinot Noir.
Note: Charmes-Chambertin is a Grand Cru (the best) vineyard for red wine in the Cote de Nuits region of Burgundy, with Pinot Noir as the main grape variety.